Hampi diaries

On our journey home to the U.S., I was trying to reflect on why Hampi really tugged at my heartstrings. The spectacular ruins that unfold wherever you go instill a sense of awe at the erstwhile Vijayanagara kingdom’s powerful & prosperous past. The views atop the hills are expansive – the pinnacles of temples soar high above a surreal backdrop of rocks & boulders carved by the meandering Tunghabhadra river. Sunset & sunrise spots here are pure magic, serene and spiritual. Driving here was just wonderful – traffic was virtually non-existent, and the drive filled with views of coconut trees, paddy fields, and the river. As a Kannadiga, the inscriptions in old Kannada at these ruins just created that special bond – I felt like this was my heritage & culture at its best display. Like most South Indians, I grew up to a steady diet of comics & movies that shone light on the wit of Tenali Ram in the court of the mighty Krishna Deva Raya. And so, when the guide started talking about them here, it felt like it had come full circle – I could almost feel myself going back to those formative years of my life. Everything here is very basic; tourism is still at its nascent stages, and the touts have not taken over just yet. Somehow, all the people here seemed to be friendly, welcoming, and genuinely had a smile. An UNESCO World Heritage site, Hampi also holds a very significant place in Hindu theology & has been a pilgrimage site (Pampa Kshetra or Kishkinda Kshetra) since ancient times. For all these reasons, Hampi is a must visit, and should be on the itinerary of anyone visiting South India for the first time.

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1. Catch a sunrise at the Malyavanta Raghunatha temple

We decided to start our Hampi sojourn with a sunrise here. Often overlooked by travelers, the Malyavanta Raghunatha Swamy temple is a tribute to Lord Rama and is linked to the Ramayana. The Malyavanta hill is widely believed to be the place where Lord Rama and Lakshmana took refuge and waited out a monsoon trying to raise an army with Sugriva, Hanuman & the Vanara Sena in Kishkinda in aid of Sita. Our front desk at the hotel had recommended the sunrise here, and we had little idea what to expect. We started off an hour before sunrise with the expectation that we might have to hike a bit to get to the top of the hill. We were pleasantly surprised to find out we could drive right to the entrance of the temple atop the hill. Having an hour to kill, we decided to visit the temple first. Unlike most temples in India, this one is open day and night. At 5:15 in the morning, we were greeted to the meditative chants of two priests reciting the Ramcharitmanas (an epic Awadhi poem composed by the 16^th Century Indian poet Goswami Tulsidas detailing the events of the Ramayana. It literally translates to “Lake of the deeds of Rama”). We learnt later that the recitation has been going on 24/7, 365 days a year for at least a decade at this temple! Idols of Lord Rama, Lakshmana and Sita with Lord Hanuman kneeling close to them all carved out of a single boulder form the main shrine. Scattered throughout the outer walls of the temple are aquatic creatures, real & mythical. Right behind is a cave temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. We then headed to the top for a spellbinding view of Hampi and the sunrise. We had the whole place to just ourselves for a while, and our solitude was only interrupted with the arrival of monkeys curious to find out what we were doing.

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Clockwise from Top Left: Sunrise from atop the Malvavanta Raghunatha temple hill, Two curious monkeys trying to figure out what we are up to with our tripod, View of the temple compound from the hill top, Monkeys outside the temple entrance

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2. Explore the exquisite Vijaya Vitthala temple

The Vijaya Vitthala temple complex was built in the 15th century during the reign of the Vijayanagra King Devaraya II (1422 – 1446 A.D.). Several parts of the temple were expanded during the reign of King Krishna Devaraya (1509 – 1529 A.D.), the most famous of the Vijayanagara kings. The temple was damaged in the Bahmani conquest in the 16th century, and all that is left now are ruins indicative of a glorious past. The architectural beauty and the exquisite sculptures make it the most popular of all the places to see in Hampi.

We arrived here just before noon to a surprisingly hot December sun. The place was also seething with people which further compounded our misery. That late breakfast cost us big time; if we were to do this again, we would arrive here early in the morning to a cooler weather and lesser crowds. We also walked in to the complex, stopping at the Kuduragombe Mantapa and the Pushkarini. One thing we did do right, we hired a local guide. There’s a lot to see in these ruins, and quite a bit of symbolism in the sculptures that a guide would be able to explain really well. Some of our favorite architectural features here:

• The famous Ratha or Stone Chariot: One of three stone rathas all over India (the other two being in Puri & Mahabalipuram), it was built by King Krishnadevaraya inspired by the Konark Sun Temple in Puri during his battles with the Gajapatis of Odissa. This was a shrine to Garuda, and the chariot was originally drawn by horses. The Archaeological Society of India apparently added the elephants to cover up for the destruction of the horses.
• The musical pillars of Ranga Mantapa: The Maha Mantapa (Grand Hall) or the Ranga Mantapa has rows of carved pillars called the Saregama pillars – 56 of these. When stuck, these pillars resonate with different musical notes. These are unfortunately no longer open to the public and you can only look at them from afar.
• The Kalyana Mantapa: The Kalyana Mantapa or the Wedding Hall was used for marriages and other auspicious ceremonies.
• King’s Balance: This frame made of stone was used by the King to donate to the poor. He would sit on one side of the balance, and on the other side of the balance, grains and/or gold would be put to counter balance and distributed to the citizens.

All the halls have ornate sculptures of yaalis (mythical creatures in ancient South Indian architecture), scenes from the story of Narsimha & the other avatars of Vishnu, & stories from Hindu Mythology such as the Ramayana & the Mahabharata. This is not a functioning temple anymore – the sanctum sanctorum is missing the main deity. According to local legend, when the city was under intense attack, the devotees of the temple secretly moved the idol from here to Pandharpura in Maharashtra for safekeeping, which is where it currently resides as well. This temple complex is a must-see in my opinion for anyone visiting Hampi.

Clockwise from Top Left: Walking to the Vitthala Temple; Temple tower details; Ratha; Temple tower; Beautiful tree; Musical Pillars; Jain tourists at the Vijaya Vitthala

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3. Find yourself awestruck at the Lakshmi Narasimha & Badavilinga

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4. Experience solitude at the Achyutaraya Temple ruins

We headed up the stairs from the huge monolithic Nandi bull at the east end of the Hampi Bazaar just before sunrise. A short climb up a pathway led us to this spectacular temple compound nestled in a cloistered valley between the Gandhamadana Hill and the Matanga Hill. Basked in early sunlight, the Achyutaraya temple feels like a scene straight out of Tomb Raider and Indiana Jones. The background is quintessential Hampi – tall coconut trees and paddy fields fighting for space in the rocky landscape.

The temple was built during the reign of King Achyutaraya in 1534 and is dedicated to Lord Tiruvengalanatha or Venkateshwara, a form of Vishnu. This was one of the last major projects built in Hampi before the city was destroyed. The temple courtyard is accessible through two beautiful ruined towers, one behind the other. Owing to its isolated location, solitude is a given. We were the only people around for a while here. This is a must-do in my opinion.

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Above: At the top, the outermost ruined temple tower leading to the courtesan street; in the middle, the outer temple tower frames the inner temple tower & Nilanjana and I; At the bottom, view of the temple courtyard from the stairs above the monolithic Nandi bull at the end of Hampi Bazaar

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5. Catch an amazing sunset at the Hemakuta Hill

The Hemakuta Hill is a very popular sunset spot in Hampi that offers a spectacular view of Virupaksha temple and the sprawling ruins. It also has mythological connotations, and is believed to be where Goddess Parvati under took penance to win Shiva’s heart. For those of you who might find Matanga Hill challenging, the gentle slopes of Hemakuta Hill are an easy alternative. It is accessible from multiple places – from Hampi bazaar, Virupaksha temple and the Kadalekalu & Sasivekalu Ganeshas. Be mindful that tripods are not allowed here and a guard will start driving people out after sunrise. Since this is also a very easy hike and offers a great view, the place is usually crowded. This place is also inhabited by tons of monkeys. If you cannot avoid steering clearing of them, do keep in mind a few rules – do not tease them, do not feed them, and try not carrying any open snacks.

Clockwise from Top Left: View of Virupaksha temple from Hemakuta Hill, Beautiful tree next to a small temple at sunset hour, Monkeys gather on top of the Virupaksha temple tower right after the crowds dissipate post sunset

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6. Tete a tete with the Two Ganeshas

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7. Have your fill of street eats, cozy restaurants & shopping at the Hampi Bazaar

Hampi Bazaar is a very small street filled with shops & eats located behind the Virupaksha Temple complex. Do also try the street eats walking into the bazaar, and guava fruit, sugarcane juice & fresh coconut water by vendors all around Hampi.

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Clockwise from Top Left: Street scene; Incense Shop; The best sugarcane juice ever across the road from Badavi Linga; Saugat’s reaction at finding out no restaurants serve meat in Hampi Bazaar; Gooseberries, fried lentils & guavas galore

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8. Hike up to a breathtaking view at the Matanga Hill

Matanga Hill is the highest point in Hampi and a hike up to the top of the hill offers panoramic views of the Hampi ruins and the landscape. It is both a sunrise and a sunset spot. If you do want to beat the crowds however, try sunrise instead. Starting at 5AM in the morning to catch sunrise deters most of the crowds.

The hike to the top should take one about 30 minutes, and is moderate in difficulty. The hike is pretty straightforward, except for a few spots at the top where it just feels a little exposed. Take deliberate steps and go slow, and you’ll be perfectly fine. There are quite a few ways to head to the top of Matanga Hill. One path has steps leading all the way to the top; steps as ancient as the Vijayanagara Kingdom that have impressively withstood the vagaries of time and the weather. We headed up the stairs from the monolithic Nandi bull at the end of the Hampi Bazaar. These stairs lead up a rocky terrain to the ruins of Achyutaraya Temple and thereafter a short, steep ascent to the top of Matanga Hill. We took the other path with stairs all the way down on our way back.

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Above: The spectacular views from atop Matanga Hill; the top photo is of Virupaksha Temple; the bottom photo is of the Krishna Temple Complex

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9. Across the Tunghabhadra for an idyllic retreat

Just a 7-minute boat ride across the Tunghabhadra river from Virupaksha Temple is Virupapura Gaddi village. More popularly known as the Hippie Island, this is a vibrant village favored by tourists around the world for it’s chilled out vibes. The boat ride is only available from early in the morning until 5:00 PM on non-monsoon months. Do check with the locals on timings of the boat rides; getting the times wrong can leave you stranded on the mainland and force you to shell out for a relatively expensive tuk-tuk ride. During the monsoon, the boat rides are shut down owing to the unsafe rise in the levels of the Tunghabhadra river. It is also accessible via a long but very scenic 40 KM drive that takes you through idyllic settings across a bridge over the Tunghabhadra river. Tourists flock here for many reasons:

• It is full of shops, shacks, restaurants and huts. Your Food here comes with a view! Most restaurants here offer a great view of either paddy fields or the Tunghabhadra river. Most huts here are very basic (just a fan & a bed, nothing more), cheap & allow you to really get to know the local place & culture.
• The locals here are very friendly & accommodating.
• The vast expanse of rocks and boulders make Hippie Island a hotspot for bouldering, and there are quite a few shops that rent out gear and offer lessons.
• The place has a very laidback vibe and frequented by hippies. It’s not uncommon to hear somebody strumming, or playing a didgeridoo in the distance.
• The sunset hill viewpoint here is supposed to be quite the experience.
• Hampi is a dry town. Alcohol is not served in restaurants here. Also, most restaurants, especially the ones in Hampi Bazaar do not serve meat as well. Hippie Island does not have these restrictions.
• The stunning Anjaneya Hill & temple can be accessed on this side of the Tunghabhadra river. It is rumored to be the birthplace of the mighty Hanuman, and the temple is accessible via a climb of 575+ steps. We couldn’t find time to fit this and hope to do it in another visit in the future.

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Clockwise from Top Left: Paddy fields at Virupapura Gaddi; Kishore & I at a cafe; Virupaksha Temple view from our restaurant; Workers at a paddy field; Tunghabhadra river; Nilanjana @ the Laughing Buddha

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10. Fall in love with the Pushkarinis at Hampi

Above: The “Kalyani” Pushkarini with its pavilion of carved pillars at the Krishna temple complex bazaar

Pushkarinis are water tanks that typically form a part of a temple complex. They are considered sacred, and serve the ritual needs of the temple. These ancient structures are an important archaeological feature, and are known throughout India by many names. In Hampi, most of the big temples have a Pushkarini right outside. Most of these are in a ruined state today, but still very beautiful. A few must-see’s are listed below:

1. The Pushkarini outside the Krishna Temple: This is my favorite Pushkarini in Hampi. The temple tank is surrounded by a raised pavilion with beautifully carved stone pillars. It is the perfect place to sit down and catch a sunrise.
2. Stepwell within the Royal Enclosure: Located near the Mahanavami (Dussehra) Dibba within the Royal Enclosure in Hampi, this Pushkarini is not associated to a temple. It is perfectly geometrical in shape, and is fed via an aqueduct.
3. The Pushkarini outside the Achyutaraya temple: Adjoining the Courtesan’s street, this beautiful Pushkarini serves the Achyuitaraya (Thiruvengalanatha) temple. This rectangular temple tank is in ruins and there is no water here. Despite this, it is worth a visit.
4. The Pushkarini outside the Vijaya Vitthala temple: One of the few functional Pushkarinis, this one is located right opposite the ruins of the Kuduregombe (Doll Horse) Mantapa (pavilion). We walked the 1KM stretch from the road to the entrance of the Vijaya Vitthala temple and were lucky to see both on our way in. We took the paid shuttle on our way out. Please keep in mind that if you take the shuttle in and out, they will skip these places.
5. The Pushkarini outside the Virupaksha temple: Called the Manmatha Honda, this functioning temple tank serves the ritual needs of the ancient Virupaksha temple, and is just outside the north tower of the temple facing the Tunghabhadra river.

Above: To the left is a very symmetrical Pushkarini (Stepped Tank) within the Royal Enclosure, To the right is an aerial view of the Pushkarini located next to the Courtesan Street outside the Achyutaraya temple

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11. Decrypt the story each carving is trying to tell

Whether it is a chapter from a religious text, a scene from Hindu mythology, or a portrayal of the Palace life and trade, each stone carving in Hampi has a story to tell, however small the carving is. Do let your imagination run wild, guess what the carving is about, and then ask around to see how accurate your guess was.

Above: Try matching up the descriptions below with the carvings above: ‘Half Lion, Half Human God’ Narsimha coming out of a pillar to kill the demon Hiranyakashyapu to protect Prahlad; Child Krishna dancing on a serpent (serpent cut off); Monkey Kings & twins Vali & Sugreeva; Lord Krishna as a cowherd playing the flute; Lord Rama with Lakshmana besides him hands his ring to Hanuman so he can identify himself to Sita; Bull & Elephant – playing with architecture

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