Incredible Ella
Ella was the highlight of our Sri Lanka trip. Having booked the first four days at the cultural triangle of Dambulla, Polunnurawa & Anuradhapura, we wanted to take in the remaining days at a more relaxing pace away from the crowds. We had landed on two choices – laze around the beaches of Galle or relax in the hill country at Ella. We were so thankful we decided on the latter.
Nestled in the central highlands of Sri Lanka, Ella is a welcome respite from the heat & humidity of the cultural triangle further north. While the town itself is small & laid back and does not have much to offer, it’s the surroundings that are the highlights – the lush green tea plantations all around, the beautiful hikes and waterfalls short distances away.
How to get there:
- Drive from Sigiriya to Ella: We were staying at Sigiriya, and drove to Ella with a stop over at Dunhinda falls. Just short of 4 1/2 hours.
- Drive from Colombo to Ella:
- Train from Kandy to Ella: This is by far considered the best way to get to Ella. Even though it seems to be the longest way to get to Ella (7 hours), it is considered one of the world’s best train ride over lush green landscapes and tea plantations. We wish we had done this.
Things to do:
Little Adam’s Peak
Not to be confused with the much longer and more strenuous Adam’s Peak trek (in Nallathaniya/Dalhousie, 4 hours away), Little Adam’s Peak is a short hike that should hardly take 2-3 hours (including stops for pictures).
The trailhead starts at the gorgeous ’98 Acres’ resort next to a white Buddha statue. Apparently it is called that because the resort owns 98 acres! The trail begins on a winding path through lush tea plantations. We ran across quite a few workers that were picking tea leaves and stuffing them into sacks tied to their heads. It took just a few friendly smiles and grins from us to strike up a small conversation with a few of them, and they were delighted to find out we share their language – Tamil. About 30% of the population of Ella speaks Tamil. Tea cultivation was introduced in Ceylon when it was a British colony. In order to work the estates, the British imported a vast number of Tamil workers from South India as indentured laborers & they form about 10% of the island’s population now.
Past the tea plantations, the well marked trail takes you gently uphill to sprawling views of the Sri Lankan hill country. A few jutting rocks provide perfect selfie opportunities to the fearless.
If you’ve worked out an appetite with all the hiking, dining at the 98 Acres might be a great way to experience the resort as well.
Ella Rock
If you’ve not had your fill of hiking with Little Adam’s Peak, Ella Rock will take it up a notch for you. We felt Ella Rock was a lot more special, and gives you a sense of achievement. While the hike itself is not terribly long – 10 kms, it is considered strenuous, and beyond a point it is all an uphill slog. It took us 6-7 hours at a very relaxed pace with mum & dad.
Ella Rock is essentially just that, an overhanging cliff at a high elevation of 3415 feet with an expansive view of the entire hillscape. We did the hike with a “guide”. Our hosts at Ella introduced us to their neighbor’s son, a young kid that wanted to be a guide, and was looking to earn some pocket money. He was so proud of his town, and so excited to show us Ella Rock that we signed him up to take us there.
I am still in two minds on whether you really need a guide to do the hike. The trail is unmarked & especially at the beginning, there is a slight chance you might take a wrong turn and get lost. We also heard stories that touts might tell you you’re on the wrong way and try to scam you into a fee for directions. However, we never ran into anyone like that. And if you follow directions carefully at the beginning of the trail, once you get to to the uphill climb, there’s no chance of you getting lost.
Oddly enough, the hike starts off walking on a railway track for a fair bit. The obvious thing – do be on the watch for any trains and steer clear. Apparently, this is the only way to get to Ella Rock, and it is not frowned upon by authorities. We walked past vegetable patches with chilis, tomatoes and beans being grown. Past the Kithalela Railway station, a turn in will start you through the path to Ella Rock. You walk past many more farms, and then slowly start the ascent to Ella Rock. After a point, as you keep walking through the tree line, you go past eucalyptus trees into the steepest part of the hike. After this, the hike is not forgiving at all. It is all uphill, and could be slippery at places as well, especially if there have been recent rains.
The summit is a spectacular viewpoint with views stretching out to infinity of the hill country. We were told there would be someone selling tea at the top. Unfortunately, not the day we chose. The hike back is surprisingly fast. But be deliberate at the steepest section and take your time lest you slip. Here are some do’s and don’ts to help:
- Do start the hike early. This is for multiple reasons – even though Ella is colder than the rest of the country, the first part of the hike is through open sun. Also, the fog sets in in the afternoon & could lead to zero visibility.
- Do wear good hiking boots with ankle support.
- Do pack in a wind cheater or a light jacket – it does get cold at the top.
- Do get something to protect yourself from rain – it is very wet at the top.
- Do fill up on snacks and drinks to stay hydrated. There’s nothing like a good picnic lunch at the summit of Ella Rock.
- Do not leave any trash behind.
Demodara Nine Arch Bridge
This is the quintessential Ella picture. Built in the early 20th century when Ceylon was a British colony, this nine arch bridge is considered an engineering achievement. Over 28 meters in height, the bridge spans 90+ meters and was built with just stone & cement. No steel or concrete was used at all.
We were lucky to have stayed at a hotel that directly overlooks the Nine Arch Bridge.
Dowa Rajamaha Viharaya temple
This charming Buddhist temple is just a short 10 km/15 mins drive halfway from Ella to Bandarawela. It is believed to be over 2000 years old, and is famous for it’s towering 38 feet Buddha statue carved out of a sheer granite boulder amidst jackfruit trees. The statue is rapidly decaying, and when we were there, attempts were being made to restore it.
The temple is full of colorful murals and Buddha sculptures, and the canopy has beautiful motifs all across. The priest is happy to show you around and allow you to take pictures as well.
Tea Factory Tour
With so many tea plantations around, there are bound to be tea factories. Try to fit in a visit to one of the many tea factories that offers tours in Ella to see the production process. Ella primarily produces black tea & green tea. These are the most popular:
- Uva Halpewatte Tea Factory
- Kinellan Tea Factory & Tea Centre
- Finlay’s Newburgh Tea Estate
- Dambethenne Tea Factory
Our Stay:
Sri Lanka was a last minute decision for us. And to make matters worse, we picked the week leading up to New Year’s eve, the busy season in Ella. Our first choice – Madulkele Tea Estate was booked out! Second choice – 98 Acres Tea Estate – booked out!! Pretty soon, we were sensing a pattern; every hotel we remotely liked in Sri Lankan hill country in Nuwura Eliya, Ella & Knuckles Mountain Range were all booked out for the Christmas week. We had to finally settle for a homestay at the Nine Arch View hotel in Ella that had good reviews. Best. Decision. Ever.
At 1/5th the cost, we checked into rooms that were basic, and had great wi-fi. There were just two rooms connected by a shared balcony. But what it lacks in luxury, it more than makes up in two ways – the view & the hospitality. The view from the balcony was hands down the *best* view in all of Ella. You could spend an eternity staring at the Nine Arch Bridge and the lush tropical rainforests that envelopes it.
We also had the added benefit of a super host taking care of us. A first-class cook, every day our host would just walk up from her house below through the steep path up the tea plantation, carrying an unbelievable breakfast spread. She helped us out with all of our Ella plans and really made our stay. We loved her food so much we had her make dinner for us at an extra cost as well. She served us our best meals in Sri Lanka – Egg Hoppers, Milk Hoppers (appam), String Hoppers (idiyappam), pol sambol (coconut relish), gotu kola sambol (pennywort salad), poriyal, Sri Lankan dhal curry and various other dishes. She also introduced us to a taste we have never tried – an overripe papaya with a dash of lime. The lime on the papaya takes the flavor to a whole different level. Apparently, the lime also has the added benefit of taking the edge off of the muskiness of a papaya. Try it out, you’ll be addicted.
If you are considering a stay here, please do keep in mind that there a million things named ‘Nine Arch’ – Nine Arch Lodge, Nine Arch Gap, Nine Arch Holiday Resort, Nine Arch Hotel…you get the hang of it. Remember, it is the Nine Arch View hotel.
[…] This blog is an account of our travels to the cultural triangle. We have a separate post on Ella here as […]