Waterton Lakes in Winter
Waterton Lakes is possibly the most underrated National Park in Alberta. And for good reason – in provinces replete with National Parks, it has to vie for attention between the likes of Jasper, Banff, Kootenay, Yoho & Mt. Revelstoke. It’s geographical location does not help either; while the other parks are closer to Calgary & Edmonton, on the Trans-Canada highway from Vancouver, or in the same vicinity as each other, Waterton Lakes is sequestered in the southwest corner of Alberta bordering Montana in the USA.
Nonetheless, for the resolute few that make it here, this small park rewards them with spectacular views of the Rocky Mountains, abundant wildlife sightings and clear blue lakes. I was very fortunate to have visited during Family Day long weekend, when the park turns into an ethereal winter wonderland.
Fun Facts
- With a size of just 195 square miles (505 square kilometres), Waterton Lakes forms the smallest park in the Canadian Rocky Mountains
- Waterton Lakes National Park borders the Glacier National Park in Montana. Together, they form the Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park. It was designated as a biosphere reserve in 1979 and an UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995.
- The park was named after Waterton Lakes, the deepest lake in the Canadian Rockies. The lake itself was named after English naturalist and conservationist Charles Waterton.
- It is Canada’s fourth National Park (after Banff, Yoho, and Glacier, in order)
- Waterton is home to more than 60 species of mammals, 250 species of birds, 24 species of fish and 10 species of reptiles and amphibians. Over half of all plant species in Alberta can be found here.
10 amazing hikes
A trip to the Waterton Lakes is not complete without doing some hikes. It has all of 120 miles of hiking trails, varying from easy to strenuous, most of them with amazing payoffs. You will need to use caution, especially during fall months – you are in grizzly bear territory.
| Hike | Difficulty | Distance | Elevation Gain | Trailhead & Info |
| Blakiston falls | Easy | 1.2 miles (2 KMs) | NA | Red Rock Canyon |
| Cameron Lake | Easy | 2 miles (3.2 KMs) | NA | Cameron Lake |
| Red Rock Canyon | Easy | 0.4 miles (0.7 Kms) | NA | Red Rock Canyon |
| Bear’s Hump | Moderate | 1.8 miles (2.8 KMs) | 800 ft. | Parking lot at Prince of Wales hotel turn off |
| Forum Lake | Moderate | 5.5 miles (8.8 KMs) | 984 ft. | Akamina Parkway |
| Wall Lake | Moderate | 7 miles (10.5 KMs) | 541 ft. | Akamina Parkway |
| Lineham Ridge | Difficult | 10.6 miles (17.2 KMs) | 3150 ft. | Row Lakes trailhead at the Akamina Parkway |
| Crypt Lake* | Difficult | 10.8 miles (17.4 km) | 2297 ft. | Reserved boat shuttle to Crypt Landing |
| Carthew-Alderson* | Difficult | 13 miles point to point (20.9 KMs) | 3048 ft. | Cameron Lake |
| Akamina Ridge* ** | Difficult | 12.4 miles (20 KMs) | 4270 ft. | Akamina Pass Trailhead, Akamina Parkway. |
*These three hikes form the Triple Crown hiking challenge of Waterton. Do all three hikes in one summer, and you get to earn a Triple Crown of Waterton pin, your name on a glory board, and bragging rights all summer!
**Even though the trailhead is in Alberta, the best part of the hike is technically in BC.
Note: In 2017, the Kenow wildfire burned large parts of Waterton Lakes National park. Over 80% of the forested trail system was burned, including the Akamina and Red Rock parkways. Please check latest trail conditions with the park website before planning your trip.
A must do – Bear’s Hump
A sudden rush of thoughts race through my mind as I gasp to catch my breath:
‘How did I let myself get this way? Ugh…i’m so unfit. How did I squander away all summer! All these extra pounds!! I’m going to hit the gym every day, eat healthy and lose weight. I’m going to do a hike every weekend & whip myself into shape’
Short of breath & desperately struggling through several switchbacks in a brutal 800 feet uphill slog in solitude does that to you. Lots of introspecting, heart-searching and promises to improve! It is pin drop silence at the trail, and thankfully not another soul throughout the hike to witness the ignominy of my struggles. After a full 45 minutes of slowly making my way through the fresh snow covered trails, I finally make it to the top.
And boy was it worth it! A phenomenal panorama opens up – mountain peaks in the far background, the entire town of Waterton down below now looking like some tiny toy houses set together, and the beautiful clear waters of Upper Waterton Lake. A closer look at the mountain peaks across explains the name of this hike; you can clearly make out the outline of a grizzly bear with its hump. I had these tremendous views all to myself – a distinct advantage of a winter hike here. I took in all this tranquility as I munched through my packed sandwich, before taking the customary “Top of Bear’s Hump” photos, and heading back to the car.
If you are strapped for time, and need to pick a hike from the list above, make sure you pick Bear’s Hump. It is the quintessential Waterton Lakes hike. The trailhead is located just outside Waterton town at the turn off from the Prince of Wales Hotel. Even though it is a steep climb, it is just 1.8 miles long, and can be done if you are in reasonably good shape.
Getting Here
The easiest way to get to Waterton Lakes National park is to fly in to Calgary Airport, and drive a rental car from the airport south to Waterton Lakes.
The drive to Waterton Lakes takes you through very beautiful country in Alberta, as these photos will attest.
Calgary to Waterton lakes National Park